Q.  
Do you get tiny little holes in your greenware?   Is it from bubbles in the slip? 

A.  
You asked about tiny holes in greenware.   It most likely was caused while preparing the slip for casting.  If slip is whipped to mix it thoroughly, and not allowed to let the air bubbles settle out, then air bubbles will appear in the greenware.  Slip has a tendency to thicken (gel) in the jugs and must be conditioned.  Then a  period of time must elapse before the slip can be poured.  
Possible solutions to remove air bubbles from slip that has been beaten for mixing are: 
    1.  Strain the slip several time from one container to another then let it sit with a wet cloth  
               (cheese cloth or diaper) over the top of the container.  Air bubbles will rise.  
    2.  Strain several times and let set for several hours before attempting to cast greenware.  
    3.  Always check greenware after removing from mold and repair the greenware 
                immediately.   (This is a must and a very important stage)

A.  
Regarding Lines in greenware.  The answer is yes - Never Stop or pour too slowly.  Your lines are possible hesitation lines.  Never slow down on your pouring once you start.  Always have enough slip to pour the entire piece - Never Stop.  If you continue to still see hesitation lines on your greenware then check on the inside of your mold to make sure those lines aren't in the detail on the plaster mold. 

Q.  
How do you know which colors fire cone 5 and can you mix them in a fire? I  guess I have to fire a 6 and hope it just doesn't cook too long since I dot have cone 5's.  I do have them as witness but not as sitters.  So is it ok to fire them with the cone 6?  I have done it before not knowing any  better, I even had them together with the lighter colors and seemed to  have no problem but wondered why the firing time was 4-4 and half hrs instead of 6-6 and half hrs. 

A.  
1.  Read on your gallon the recommended firing time.  Some Seeley need to fire to cone 7.  I fire mostly to cone 6.  Every firing I put a 5/6/7 witness cone in to check firing for accuracy.  
2.  Again check the gallon to see what the manufacturer of the slip recommends.  In Bell Indian Flesh & Regal Brown  -  fire to cone 5.  If you fire it hotter  you risk tiny raised blisters, excessive warping, or a sheen on you bisque.  It really can't take the extra heat.   Right this does not happen everytime because various factors affect the temperature and the way the piece matures too even in the same kiln.  You could be on the low end of cone 6 which could be closer to a 5 cone. 
3.  The reason I am impressed with the Regal Slip by Crest is because their firing instructions say: 
No propping will be needed unless it is an extreme shape.  If necessary, the ware can be bedded in silica flour, silica sand, or propped with porcelain prop. 
  
Regal can be fired from cone 5 through cone 7.  We recommend firing to cone 6 except African, Mullatto, and Modern which can be fired to cone 5 to prevent a sheen.  Regal will china paint beautifully at a cone 5 with no "MILDEW". 

Use a cone 6 in kiln setter and until you are familiar with the way your kiln fires, use witness cones in each firing.   You will find that most kilns fire true to cone on the shelf that is level with the setter, a cone COOLER below the setter and as much as a cone HIGHER above this level.  Fire with all switches on low & lid propped for one hour.  Turn all switches on medium for one hour.  Then turn kiln to high, close lid and fire to maturity. 

As you can see the Regal Slip has a wider range for firing and thus maturity occurs at 5 and less chance of mildew.  I recommend that if you must mix colors of slip in a firing, you place you darker pieces on the bottom of the kiln with a 6 cone in the kiln setter.  The color of the slip will not make you kiln fire longer only the cone in the kiln setter, warm up time, cold outside kiln air, but not something you are firing unless you have a whole lot of pieces in the kiln.  Smaller packed kiln take less time the fully packed kilns - placing pieces too close together risk air  circulation problems and possible firing problems.  Always allow enough space around each piece.   An average load is desired.

Customer:   I fired my cuddles that I poured with the dent and it sunk in at the middle of the head was I supposed to fire it standing on it's neck? It's so huge I put it on it's back of the head and put the stuffing in the  neck opening and it still made it oval shaped., and the leg opening too. What a disaster, I'm glad I'm using your cuddles for my lady, but  how can I fire it without collapsing? I can't have her disappointed in  another doll.   I hope you can help me with that problem.  Yes you can put my questions n your help  page, just don't put my name.  I'll be embarrassed that I had to ask so many questions.   
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